EL CLARIN DE LA MONTAÑA by Andres Landero
Andres Landero CHAVELA
After our excursion in Cuzco, Macchu Pichu and its surrounding little towns like Pisac, Oyantaytambo, Puca Pucara. We departure to back to Lima. The director and the writer of the documentary ‘Afro Latinos’ had to fly back to Colombia, to continue the doc and edit what was already filmed. Rich and I (Listen Recovery) spend one week an a half in Lima. Coincidentally my birthday was in 1 week. We took the time to finally do our digging in Peru. We had been waiting to at least have 3 days to dig some of the cultural artist in Peru. From Abanto Morales, Los Kipus, Zambo Cabero and obscurity music in the form of Funk like, Barrabas from Spain that recorded most of their albums in Lima, We are all together, Traffic Ave, Black Sugar and also the pre-punk era with bands like Los York, Los Belkin, Los Saicos (who brought the screaming style of Punk in the early 60’s). We had schedule to meet with some of the record collectors in Quilca St. (artwalk of Lima street). Vicente is a known collector of the old era in punk, rock and cumbias in Lima, he mainly caters to all the international collectors that visit Quilca for some record shopping. From Japanese to Australian diggers, visit every year “calle Quilca” to experience more about Peru Music culture and its rarities. At one point Lima was the capital of Latin America for recording and performing. From Venezuela salsa to Argentinian tango to Polka music, Lima was the center of attention during the 6o’s and most of the 70’s decade in the music industry. From Polydor plants to Odeon HQ.
Here are the last photos for this V part photo story telling article. From Lima to the world. We dig deep to get deeper…
This last trip to our ‘barrio’ neighborhood in Breña, Lima where Rich and I grew up till we arrive in California. Has been the origin of every expedition though the Peruvian terrain. From Costal, Andes and Jungle. Rio Santiago 173 or how we refer to it “La casa vieja” “The old house”. The story goes that Rich and I never liked to leave the house of neighborhood, it was very dear to us. From our friends playing futbol in the concrete to the music bumpin’ out the windows on Saturday mornings. To the famous ‘esquina de la calle’ ‘corner of the street’ where ‘vecinos’ ‘neighbors’ would gather and talking about life while ‘wetting the words’ ‘mojando las palabras’, to drink while talking, ‘no politic’, why?, because there is only one glass cup going around and serving a 4th of the cup, to indulge in couple of zips and pass the cup to the next men. The men will serve the women if it was to pass it to the next and the next was the women. For example, a ‘blunt’ being pass, in this case it was a glass cup, with beer. This is how Peruvians drink. And they last till early hrs of next morning. The way of drinking in South America is more discreet in pace, but never discreet in amount. Nectar of ‘caña de azuca’ ‘sugar cane’. Is a small cut of extract of the cane. It has many proteins and capabilities to protect from viruses and illness, it serves as a shield for sickness. As well as a cure for hang-overs after a long day of drinking with your friends or family. Also it cures and prevents cough and flues. This new edition of natural drinks was all new to us. We had never seen this style of protein. So we where very happy to have this in our neighborhood in Breña. The lady that serves is been doing it for 3 years. And she makes about 80 cups a day at 1 sol or 0.50 centimos (small cup). We had one everyday we stayed in Lima. In ocattion with “Malita” our auntie. (this part of our story has been very personal) hope you enjoy.
Part of the reason of why we always come back to this very same place is because of this photo, the food by our ‘Malita’ Alejandrina Franco De Matheus. This is HOME!, this dish is a very traditional. Pure de Papas con Asado y arroz blanco. Man if you are a vegy… you’ll have it hard to resit in Peru… We tell you… Peruvian is consider the best in the world as we speak… shoot!… you should google that!…
And then, We did some digging…
It was the same city we visit every year for our digging time, Calle Quilca, 0.5 miles of cultural experiences. Starting with Records and ending with Books. Quilca is historical to Lima art. Is a very attractive street, from its artwork on the walls to its people working the vending booths for books art and music. Vicente is the man we visit for records, he has put us on some deep stuff from Peru. From Salsa to the early pre-punk era, to some psychedelic peruvian cumbias or what we call “Chicha Music”.
Luiz Enrique Alvizuri is a writer / composer from Peru. In 2003 his song Rema, Rema became the song of the year for the Oscars Academy. A peruvian writer that won an oscar was unheard off. In 2008 we visit “El Averno” a poets lounge in the center of Quilca st. To our surprise Luiz Alvizuri had perform at the very same place we where standing on 3 days prior. This is the poster on the entrance of the poets lounge at El Averno.
This show took place at ‘Teatro Peruano Japones’ November 18th and 19th 2008. Only two presentations, it was 6 years since Susana had not set foot on Peruvian grounds. She was overwhelmed during her concert. Give thanks to the crowd and expressing her love for her country. It was a beautiful night in Jesus Maria, city where the theatre is located. Rich and I took a taxi cab from Breña to the theatre. We thought the show started at 8pm, but it started at 9pm. So we got there an hr earlier. We decided to take a cab back to the house, since I had forgot my camera at home. I would off been mad at myself if I didn’t get some pictures taken of Susana. To my luck it was only 15 min in a cab back to Breña. We mingle with the homies for a few minutes and then took off to the show. We arrived around 8:45 pm, ready to experience the queen of ‘Lando’. It was mainly a mature crowd of fox. You now the older crowd 50 and up. Our eyes where on the stage the moment we took our seats. To our luck. The bottom seats (closer to the stage) didn’t not fill up the room. So Susana was kind to send an advise to bring the people in the balcony to the lower levels of the theater (the cheaper tickets). Rich and I rush to the bottom when we heard the ushers tell us the info. We took the front seats of the theater. Here are some photos.
My cousin Miguel “Micky” Matheus got on the phone and called all the homies in the ‘barrio’ for a celebration of my 31st as well as a farwell party. It was around 11:00 pm when I got home. Rich, Micky and I took a taxi to a bakery near the city and got a ‘selva negra’ 4 types of different chocolates cakes in one… uummm. bomb! By the time we got home. there was some of the homies posted in front of the house in Rio Santiago street.
The next morning was our last day in Peru, Nov. 21st. We had to be at the airport by 12pm to fly at 2am on Nov. 22nd. So the same day of our flight we embarked on a quick walk and taxi ride to various galleries to purchase a few last gifts and things we wanted to get… One of the many things we wanted to get is the famous Lacoste polos… the black market has them at $5 or $15 soles, at Polvos Azules you can find the same polos but better quality at double of the price. We took the best quality since it was still cheap…
We flew to Cuzco from Lima, is only 55 min. plane ride. We landed at Cuzco Intl. Airport Alejandro Velasco Astete. We stayed at a Hotel call ‘Mirador Coricancha’ meaning ‘Coricancha Viewer’ literally in front of the Coricancha which is the main temple of the Incas in Cuzco. Here are some of the first photos when we arrive.
After our trip in the Macchu Pichu Ruins, we took the bus back to Aguas Calientes, the city where you arrive to go to the ruins. To our luck, a storm of hail dropped on us during our excursion in the empire of the Incas. Around 7pm we arrived in our hotel, dead tired, hungry and thirsty for some Inca Kola (national soda). We freshened up and when downstairs of our hotel to choose from some traditional recipes from indigenous hands. The dish to try, ‘picante de cuy’, I won’t translate this dish, its kinda special of the Andes. During our dinner, we encounter a parade of students with torches and traditional customs. It was a celebration of a school near by. It took us by surprise. The day after our visit to Macchu Pichu, we took a bus back to Cuzco. Once again to our luck. The Peru Rail train was on strike, so we couldn’t ride the train back to Cuzco. We had to take 3 different buses and stop and numerous little towns as people got off and got in the bus. It was a humbling experience to ride with the locals of Cuzco towns. During my ride to Pizac (small town 4 hrs from Cuzco) I visit a market place, where we found a Shaman and 500 different types of potatoes. In our search for food, we found a nice restaurant to sit and relax. Here are more photos from our excursion back to Cuzco.
On our trip back to Cuzco, we stopped in ‘Oyalltantambo’ ruins/town. Also a very important sight to learn about. History tells us that this is the place where the last Incas in the Empire hided their gold and sacred mummies. Today with the privatization of various sights in Cuzco, is hard to visit every town or ruins, because you have to pay for every sight you visit. This is the only downfall from all the beauty to discover in Cuzco. We had a blast visiting the 4th wonder of the world and its surrounding towns. Here are more photos from our journey back to Cuzco.
Part IV continue (LINK)
Back in Chincha for more research and interviews with the director and the writer. Coincidence the presidential election where going on in the US while we worked the documentary in Chincha for AFRO LATINOS. We arrive Nov. 1st in the morning, the election where on the 4th, the day Obama became the 1st ‘negro president’ in the history of the United States.
Even a remote city like Chincha felt the pride and honor to be leaving in the times when color of skin have reach its mayor point of ‘equality’. After departing from our beautiful Chincha.
We arrived in Lima, with the plans to purchase our tickets for Cuzco. We had so much energy still, the adrenaline was pumping through our vains… Cuzco was 2 days away.
Rich also made plans with his significant other to meet in Lima so she can come along with the crew to visit the mystic land of Machu Picchu.
After Cuzco we return to Lima, for some digging, food and some live music by Susana Baca, queen of Lando. To my luck, the concert was on the eve of my 31st birthday. Which I haven’t celebrated since I departed to LA in 1991 from Lima. It was nice to celebrate with my brother, my cousin Micky and my infancy friends. Rich and Micky planned a mild surprise with a cake ‘selva negra’ (all chocolate cake) and some friends that hardly come out during our trip… it started about 11pm, I was a bit sore from 5 hours of dental work.
The celebration extended till 8am of next day. In Peru the celebration is digested, meaning we enjoy our drinking and social time… in moderation and in small portions. This is the secret of lasting all night, a sip at a time. To my surprise I was on my feet till 8:30am. I was back in my element but not used to it.
Rich and I have been traveling back to Peru since 2003. Is been a very amazing experience being able to learn and go back to our country, with a better understanding of culture and tradition. We embrace every moment spend in our town and surrounding cities that we visit during our annual trips to home land Peru.
We invite you to take a trip to South America’s Peru and experience the wonders and its people. The food and music are amazing to start with. The sight seeing is unique and the moments are timeless. Dig deep to get deeper.
We took a ‘micro’ (bus) right back to Mamaine for an interview and a nice traditional Afro Peruvian cuisine by black peruvian hands.
Mamaine was home this time, the 1st time we didn’t have much luck, since we showed up improvised. This time, the news to her ears had come days after she arrived from Lima back to her home in Del Carmen, about us wanting to interview and taste her food fresh from her kitchen. She is a sweat lady, full of energy and comical remarks about the life of a cook.
After interviewing and taking notes about the origin on the negro in Peru, we took a bus back to the hotel and waiting for next day agenda.
The Next day we took a walk to the ‘mercado’ in Chincha, in look for a wooden cajon / fruit produce box, for the purpose of the assimilation for the birth of “el cajon”. Here are some candid pictures from the vendors at the market. We had a blast walking in a maze of vendors from fruits to fresh fish to shoe polish…
Part IV continue (LINK)
The 2nd part of this photo diary is all about the visit to Peru Negro and the encounters we had with the Afro Peruvians in Lima.
Peru Negro’s Ronnie Campos was kind to allow us an interview right before departing to Argentina for a show with Eva Ayllon. Marcos was also present but we didn’t get to interview him. I was able to spend some time with Edu, the youngest member of the group and Ronnie’s last son. Also there are some photos from “la Peña del Carajo” in Barranco, where Eder Campos (Ronnie’s eldest son works) along with Jose Duran, also a dance for Peru Negro, where working at “del Carajo” during our visit. To our surprise the venue had prepare a fusion dance combine Afro Peruvian dances with dances from the Andes. A particular dance popular to the tourism call “el baile de las tijeras” “the dance of the scissors” typical dance from the city of Ayacucho, high in the Andes. The dance trio was directed by Eder Campos (eldest son of Ronnie Campos) and Jose Duran, dance for Peru Negro. The night was full of energy. It was the pre-celebration of Oct 31 “Dia de la music Criolla” “Day of Creole music in Peru”. Here are some ‘moments capture by our lens. Enjoy!
Aqui estan las fotos del cuarto de vestuario e instrumentos de Peru Negro. Localizado en Los Proceres en la ciudad de Surco. La Familia Campos vienen de ‘Cañete’ una ciudad situada al sur de Lima y Norte de Chincha.
Here the photos from the rooms of customs of Peru Negro. Which is located in the district of ‘Los Proceres’ in the city of Surco. The Campos family comes from ‘Cañete’ a city situated south of Lima and north of Chincha.
The streets of Lima was in full celebration of Oct 31st and the ending of “mes morado” with the ‘procession’ of “El Señor de los Milagros” a very profound walk with an image of Jesus on the cross. The entire month ‘devotes’ of the image, walk across the city asking for miracles and forgiveness of sins. Here are the photos from that day, which also is the celebration of Creole music.
We arrived in “Chincha” Capital of Afro Peruvian Folklore and Culture. We arrived early in the morning around 8:30 am. To our surprise again, we didn’t see any black people around. We started to talk toward the ‘Plaza Mayor’ or as we relate to a ‘Union Square’.
As we kept walking we encounter a black kid by the name if ‘Jimmy’, we asked him about the places in Chincha where we can find performances or groups that are active in the culture. Jimmy happen to be a dance/percussionist, he took us to his dad, Prof. Cartagena. A dance instructor/director of his own band. Here are more photos from Chincha and Jimmy taking us around the city, where he is very well known.
Restaurant Turistico MAMAINE’ en el corazon de Chincha, Del Carmen.
Touristic Restaurant MAMAINE’ in the heart of Chincha, Del Carmen.
Visitamos la casa de ‘Amador Ballumbrosio’ uno de los ultimos fundarores de la cultura Afro Peruana. Originador del ‘Zapateo’ en Chincha. Amador es el origen de la Familia “Ballumbrosio” la cual esta formada de varios hijos e hijas. Todos son bailarines y musicos. Roberto Ballumbrosio es el menor de los hijos. Tubimos la suerte de encontrarnos con el y tener una filmacion sobre el origen del cajon.
Part III continue (LINK)
In 2008 Listen Recovery was invited to be part of a documentary about the Afro Culture of 12 Latin American countries. We cover Peru, or as we would say in this project, Afro Peruvian Culture. Our mission was to interview and research about the social status of the “negro” in Peru, the culinary arts of Afro Peru, the folklore and the music, the history and geography. Creador Films provided the equipment and direction for the story. The experience was unique. Our knowledge in Afro Peruvian Culture made things easier for the director and for the story that he wanted to tell. Besides traveling along the coast, we also took a trip to Cuzco, main city to Macchu Picchu (4th wonder of the world). The director wanted to visit the ruins and film a short doc about his 1st visit to Inca land.
Here is our best work yet in photography. We are very proud of this trip and research for the documentary “AFRO LATINOS” soon to be
release on Discovery Channel. Dig deep to get deeper.
continue on part II< link
photos from Oct 31 “Dia de la musica Criolla” w/ Peru Negro.